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Dominique Moreau, female vigneron, cutting back and tying up his vines, just after they flowered. brand 'Marie-Courtin', Polisot village, Champagne, France..A new generation of vignerons around Troyes, city of the Aube, the forgotten region of Champagne, France. These new, but not necessarily young, producers, make Champagnes that are in many ways anti-Champagnes. Where Champagne for a century has made a myth of the art of blending, in which the usual distinctions of terroir, grape and vintage disappear into the house blend, these producers take a Burgundian approach to making Champagne, emphasizing all these qualities that are taken for granted as important in other regions but are largely ignored in Champagne. In a sense they each are a microcosm for larger changes taking place throughout the Champagne region, not just in the Cote des Bars, and for changing perceptions of Champagne on the part of American consumers